The Case of the Malformed Malus

Digger Spade, MG Plant Detective


The client came in early in February with a picture of the apple tree in the garden of the house he had just moved into.  The house was built in the early 1900s and the tree looked as though it had been planted around the same time, so probably around 100 years old.  The previous owner had clearly been doing some pruning because the water sprouts were quite small.  If they had been left alone for a few years they would have been ten feet long and two or three inches in diameter.  The client wanted to know how he should look after this new but ancient acquisition.

Since the tree was still dormant it was an excellent time to start pruning.  The first order of business was to remove all of the vertical new-ish looking growth (the water sprouts).  If there were any toward the ends of the main branches that were either growing at angle toward the perimeter of the tree, he might keep one per branch and train it this year toward the horizontal.  That will tend to force the development of fruiting spores and renewal opportunities. Next remove any crossing branches and thin out crowded limbs, even older ones, so that there is good air circulation and easy access to the tree.  The tree will respond to these ministrations by vigorously producing new water sprouts and those can be pulled off (not cut) in July and August so that next winter there should be little need for pruning a lot of vertical growth.  We gave the client links to a couple of sites that give more information on restoring and maintaining old apple trees, and one on apple disease and insect problems.



Since the client didn’t know if the tree was susceptible to scab or cankers (we couldn’t see any in the pictures)  or had problems with coddling moth or apple maggot, we suggested that he consider a dormant oil spray when the first sign of bud break appeared and to start fungicide applications when the first green was showing.

Most trees of this vintage are standards and are genetically programmed to be twenty to thirty feet high.  Convincing them to grow horizontally, say ten feet or less, requires constant maintenance.  If he finds this year that he has disease or serious insect problems,  he should consider pruning at ground level and enjoy some of the highest calorie firewood available.

These days homeowners can choose apple trees with tree heights that don’t exceed their reach and that are resistant to scab.  But caring for trees with maggot or coddling moth problems requires dedication usual for a commercial grower.

D. Spade and Associates

Resources

Pruning
http://ext100.wsu.edu/maritimefruit/wp-content/uploads/sites/36/2015/01/EB0937-PruningWeb.pdf

Spray Schedule for Apples
http://ext100.wsu.edu/spokane/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2015/05/C041-Spray-Schedule-for-Apples-15docx.pdf